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How to build a wheel

A wheel is best made using a fixed principle, namely by first grouping and finishing off the spokes that run in the same direction. We explain the different steps below.

1. The first group of nine spokes. From outside to inside.

1.1 The first spoke


First check if the rim is drilled left or right handed. In the case of a left handed rim, hold the right side of the hub (the drive) upwards. For a right handed rim, hold the left side of the hub upwards. For a front wheel, this is not important. For rear wheels, this determines which spokes will lead or trail. Place the wheel on your lap, the valve hole away from you. Hold the hub vertically and insert, from outside to inside, nine spokes through the upper flange. Leave one hole open between each spoke. Look at the valve hole and compare the position of the spoke hole left and right. Insert a spoke in the hole that is highest compared to the valve hole. Secure it with a nipple, leaving a few turns of the thread.

1.2 The next eight spokes


Secure the next eight spokes. Leaving three spoke holes open on the rim. All these spokes are put into holes that are high on the rim.


 

 

2. The second group of nine spokes. From outside to inside.       


Turn the wheel over. Find the spoke hole on the rim next to the first spoke of group 1 and situated one hole away from the valve hole. Find exactly the spoke hole in the top flange that is opposite to the first spoke and that lies on the same side of the selected hole in the rim. The spoke holes in the flange are not facing each other, there's a half place difference. To find the right hole in the flange plug a spoke through the selected hole. The spoke should end further than the spoke hole of the first spoke, and further away from the valve hole. fix this spoke in the correct hole on the rim, leave a few turns of thread.

Insert the following eight spokes from the outside in through the flange, each time leaving one flange hole open. Every four holes in the rim there has to come a spoke. The first 18 spokes are now per two spokes in a pattern of each time two spokes and two holes in the rim. There are no crossing spokes.

 

 

3. The third group of nine spokes. From the inside out.

Without changing the position of the wheel you can now drop nine spokes from the inside out through the remaining holes in the bottom flange. Spin the wheel around and fan out the spokes toward the wheel surface.
The spokes cross. Rotate the hub so that the first spoke moves away from the valve hole. Cross one of the loose spokes over the number of spokes as the spoke pattern requires. Go over the first spokes and under the last spoke. Insert the spoke into the first free spoke hole beyond the last crossed spoke. The spoke may seem too short. When the hub is properly rotated and all nipples felt into the spoke holes this should work. Place the following eight spokes in the same way. When it is difficult to rotate the hub, the nipples may not all be correctly placed in the rim. Pay particular attention when using discs under the nipples. Make sure that the nipples are not too far tightened. If it really does not work, either the number of crossings is wrong or the spokes are too short.

4. The fourth group of nine spokes. From the inside out.

Put the last spokes from the inside out through the flange. Turn the wheel over and proceed as in the previous group.

 

 

 

 

Control:

1. Besides the valve hole there are two spokes running parallel.

2. All spokes in the rim are in a spoke hole that correctly matches their departure point on the flange.

3. Each pair of crossed spokes of the same flange is fixed in spoke holes that are located on every next two places in the rim.

4. All crossings are equidistant from the hub, and equidistant from the rim.

5. All spokes have similar tension.

Source: Jobst Brandt, The Bicycle Wheel, 3rd edition, Avocet, 2000. illustrations: www.sheldonbrown.com

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