To Santiago de Compostela by bike

Every year, thousands of 'pilgrims' from around the world go to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain. On foot, by bike, on horseback or in a wheelchair. On their way to the tomb of 'James the Greater', St. James.

There are many roads to Santiago, but most connect to the Camino Frances, the way that comes from France, and continues south of the Pyrenees. Coming from the north, the majority of the roads connect to this Camino Francés via four main axes:
Via Turonensis (from Tours)
Via Lemonovicensis (from Vézelay)
Via Podiensis (from Le Puy-en-Velay) and
Via Tolosana (from Arles).

There are a lot of booklets, which fit perfectly on a handlebar, and provide besides the cycling route also tourist and historical information, as well as alternatives for sleeping and eating.

In 2010, 272 135 'pilgrims' got their diploma in Santiago de Compostela. To obtain this, one must be able to demonstrate that he has completed at least 100km (62.24 mi) on foot, on horseback or by wheelchair. By bike you need to have traveled at least 200km (124.48 mi). in 2010, about 12% of all the 'pilgrims' were cyclists.

You deliver this proof by presenting your stamp booklet, a booklet in which hostels (refugio's), churches, etc. regularly put stamps during your journey. If you want to use these pilgrim accommodations to stay overnight (at very reasonable prices), you need to present a credential (although I was never asked to ...).

 

The credential and stamp booklet can be obtained from local societies like:

Confraternity of Saint James Society of Great Britain Association des Amis de Saint-Jacques et d'Etudes compostellanes de la Voie de Vézelay Federación Española de asociaciones the Amigos de los Caminos a Santiago Association des Amis des Chemins de Compostelle du Nord

And then you start your trainings (and you register your workouts on catenacycling.com), because it is a long trip and it's never flat.

 

When you're packing your bags, then remember: "Less is more", the less you take with you, the better.

 

The reason

 

Today it is easy for us to make cynical reservations, but the naive, illiterate medieval man lived with the constant thought of fate : his soul would undergo on 'Judgement Day', the day his soul would leave his body and the judgement about it's destiny was made : heaven, hell, or somewhere in between, the purgatory.

 

The best way to ask for forgiveness or a favor was by contacting a Saint, and find him willing to intercede for him.

 

If this Saint had been a martyr, it was even better (martyrs had apparently something more to say).
If this Saint had been an Apostle who had died as a martyr, it was the max ..

 

Therefore, the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, the tomb of the Apostle James (Sant Iago in Galego), was the third most popular pilgrimage, after Jerusalem (tomb of Jesus Christ) and Rome (tomb of St. Peter).

 

The reasons why people today go to Santiago de Compostela are very diverse: in gratitude for an obtained favor, as a penalty, to obtain a favor, as a sporting challenge, for reflection, a combination of these ...

 

the origin

 

There are doubts about the lives of many Saints, but about 'James the Greater', there have been many documents found. After the death of Christ, James would have gone to Spain to proclaim his faith. He went from the South to the North and then returned to Jerusalem.

 

in the year 44, he was leading the Christian Community in Jerusalem, when he was captured and beheaded by King Herod Agrippa. In order to avoid that his body would be thrown to the dogs, two of his disciples would have stolen it and brought it on a boat to Galicia.

 

It was in 813 that a hermit, called Pelayo, was lured to his grave by a star, and so the tomb was discovered. Hence the name Compostela, Campus Stellae, the field of the star (a much more logical, but less entertaining, etimological explanation is that compostela would come from the word compostum, cemetery). This Pelayo goes with his story to the bishop, who reports it to the king, who lets build a church. The discovery of the tomb of the Holy Apostle was indeed very convenient for the king as the Moors were conquering Spain from the south at that moment.

 

In 844 there is the battle of Clavijo against the Moors. The H. James 'appears' on his horse, just at the moment that the Christians are almost defeated, and he chases the Moors singlehandedly. The victory is therefore attributed to him and hence his nickname "Matamoros" James the More Slayer. And he gets a bigger church ...

 

In the 2nd half of the 10th century, the first known pilgrimage takes place, namely the pilgrimage of the Bishop of Le Puy.

 

In those times, however, it was a very dangerous undertaking the trip to Santiago. In the north (Camino del norte) you had the Vikings, and in the south of the Pyrenees (Camino frances) you had the Moors.

Golden Age

At about the 11th century, the Moors finally drew back. Meanwhile, Jerusalem had fall into the hands of the Turks, and thus had become a dangerous destination. The mighty Benedictines of Cluny started to build guest houses and churches along the different routes. They were almost immediately followed by the Franciscans, Augustinians and Cistercians.

 

In the 12th century, Pope Calistinus writes a codex, the Liber Sancti Jacobi, a kind of first travelling guide. A book which includes the legend of St. James, tips on places to sleep, roads, water, ... as well as a table of rates (eg if you visit this church, you'll have to stay X days less in the purgatory ...)

 

At that time upto 500,000 pilgrims went annually to Santiago de Compostela, and this based on a population of approximately 50 millions of Europeans. Hence not only the enormous cathedrals in cities like Chartres, Tours, Burgos, ..., but also in rural villages, churches totally out of proportion with their surroundings.

 

in 1122, the tradition of the "Holy Year" was created. This is when July 25 (feast day of St James) falls on a Sunday. If you complete a pilgrimage in a holy year, and go to the Mass in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and give a charitable donation, you'll get a plenary indulgence (that's what I did ...).

Afterwards

From the 15th century there's a decline due to social revolutions, reformism and the Illumination, ... until just before World War II, when there are still only a dozen of pilgrims / year who arrive at Santiago de Compostela.

 

Since the 90s of last century, the pilgrimage knows a spectacular growth again.

 

This tour is gripping, not only because of physical exertion or the beauty of nature, but by living this experience together with thousands of others, who are making this trip that millions of others have done before, each one with his own story.